Littlecote House and Roman Villa - Review?

In the mysterious interim between Christmas and New Years, my family and I visited Littlecote House to see the remains of the Villa and Mosaic within its grounds. Despite it being pretty much on our doorstep, I had never visited here before, so found the presence of a free-to-access, well maintained roman settlement pretty astonishing and frankly quite surreal. 

Image via Penny Post 

We pull into a car park separate from the house - Littlecote was sold in '96 to Warner Holidays who operate it as a country hotel and resort. Here we are ambushed by a small excitable dog named Waffle, who decides to join us for a bit of our walk. 

Within a stone’s throw lies the footprint of a Roman Villa and Bathhouse. Its foundations have been unearthed, and stand, open to the elements, sketching out the rough area of the settlement. On the banks of the river Kennet, this site was originally built to guard a crossing, but development of river trade in the area turned it into a key location to monitor and protect cargo. Now, we are talking early roman settlement of Britain, somewhere between 45-70AD. 

Throughout the 2nd and 3rd century, the fort was transformed into a Villa replete with bathhouse. We could walk around the footprint of the various hot-dry, wet-dry, and cold rooms. 

Image via North Wessex Downs National Landscape

Yet, the incredible find here is the Orpheus Mosaic. Sheltered by a wooden barn-like structure is a vast mosaic, first uncovered in 1727 then lost - through some poor book keeping, it seems - and finally rediscovered in 1976. What we see is a restoration completed in 1991, based on images drawn by William George in 1728. It really does feel like you've stumbled upon an actual slam of history. The restoration is successful in that it feels as if there has been no intervention between its original construction and now. 

Information boards scattered around the site tell of the Villa's function at different points of its life. The ones around the mosaic pick out details and tell the tale of Orpheus - a particular favourite of mine, directly responsible for perhaps two of my favourite films: La Chimera and Portrait of a Lady on Fire. We learn that the temple here was a syncretic cult of Orpheus and Dionysus (or Bacchus), and one can only imagine the ceremonies that went alongside it. 

Image via Hungerford Virtual Museum

Interestingly, the Orphic cult seemed to be most active from the 4th century onwards, despite Constantine's Christian reforms, in a sort of pagan revivalist move by emperor of Gaul, Julian II - a.k.a The Apostate. This contextual information, provided on the info boards, was a nice addition. In fact, much of the information available at the site goes significantly beyond what is quickly accessible online without a bit of digging. 

A much more detailed overview and description of the mosaic and its corresponding cult can be found at https://corymbus.co.uk/2019/02/08/littlecote-villa-an-orphic-mystery/ 

Now, while the Roman Villa was - and is (I highly recommend a visit if you're nearby) - fascinating, the house that it is attached to is rather more odd. 

Littlecote House is steeped in history, since its early years in the Darrell family, through the Pophams, visits from royalty, and role in both the English Civil War and the Second World War. Today, it stands as a fancy-ish hotel. The main priority for us was the Cafe, with tables throughout the Great Hall and Library. However, in order to get there, we took the long way. 

The back entrance can be found overlooking a well maintained, sort of Alice-in-Wonderland style manorial garden. Once inside, left would take you directly to the hotel cafe, and right would wrap you around the entire building. We took right. Much of the rooms are kitted out as a museum, telling tales of the different chapters of the House's history. The doors are heavy and oaken, and we were the only people there. Well, besides the waxwork mannequins. 

Rooms of note were as follows. The Dutch Parlour was covered floor to ceiling in 17th century paintings depicting scenes from novels, such as Don Quixote. My sister pointed out lighter squares on the walls - places where other paintings once hanged (hung?). The room had seen its fair share of light damage. The exit was hidden behind the wood panelling, which closed flush to the rest of the wall. Peculiar. 

Image via Tripadvisor

Then there were the waxwork figures - in the 90s, the house had apparently been turned into a sort of amusement park wild-west area, according to my mother. This is true. Re-enactments took place. But of the Wild West. You can find images of this time - and a much more detailed story of the House's history - over at https://hungerfordvirtualmuseum.co.uk/?view=article&id=462&catid=24

Moving further on we pass through the Cromwellian Chapel. Here, I must reiterate, there was no-one else around. This austere chapel just appears in this operational hotel, replete with lectern and bible, books of common prayer. A small staircase allows access to the upper floors and loops back through the chapel's balconies. 

Finally, there is a more traditional museum space with objects and stories from the Second World War, illuminating the house's role as the headquarters for an American division of paratroopers. However, directly next to it is the Haunted Bedroom, which has a waxwork display of that time William Darrell was rumoured to have flung a baby into the fireplace. Seriously. Its worth following up on these stories, there are a lot of funky details. I mean, Henry VIII supposedly courted Jane Seymore in this house, not to mention all the subsequent visits from monarchs. Although this is all getting away from the haunted house aspect. 

Image via Tripadvisor

So we end up having a coffee in the grand hall, which is decorated with the remnants of the Cromwellian Armory. Pikes and leather tabards, even a pretty temperamental looking musket hangs on the wall. 

I didn't come here with an analytical mindset, so cannot speak much to the successes or missteps of the place as a museum, or the impact of the exhibitions within, but I felt it still relevant to write about. Firstly because I had never heard of it before. Secondly because of how utterly bizarre yet fascinating it all is. A mosaic just existing in a field, next to a house full of such odd stories, presented in such a casual fashion. What's not to love. 

Littlecote House and Roman Villa are free to visit, presumably at any time. (???)